Monday, September 28, 2009

Transformation

Sometimes the most profound of realizations occur in life's most insignificant moments.

Last week I was playing cards with some friends at USP and I realized something - I live here; I'm not a visitor. I have friends and family, a life here... I didn't expect it to happen within only one year, but I can't express how "normal" my life has become in Fiji. I don't know how much of it was evident in my blogs, but for months and months I struggled with a terrible case of homesickness (I still have my moments!). Now, however, I miss home but it's not the same. I tried explaining it to a couple of friends via email and put it this way: It's similar to the way I felt about Boone after leaving for college and being at Central for a year or so. I missed home a little every now and again (people mostly), but somewhere along the line I made a transition and my life became as busy and full as it was before, just in a new place. The same is true for me now and I honestly can't believe I'm saying it! It's clear by my lack of blogging that life here has become more normal now and the things I once thought blog-worthy rarely even make it in my journal (I am really sorry for the lack of updates though, eeek!).
I think a big part of the transformation lies in the fact that I know I've only got a short time to go and I'm just trying to enjoy it while it lasts and learn all I can each day. This past weekend I went to Ba with my adoptive brother Akmal to spend some time with the family. We visited with aunts and uncles, saw his school and some other sites around where he grew up, and shared lots of meals with the family. It was a really great weekend and I'm super glad I went. I think the coolest part was seeing how close Akmal and the family are with each other. We didn't call ahead of time when visiting people, just showed up and were offered food and drink. Different relatives were in and out of the house and everyone shared everything. By the end of the weekend Akmal's mother began calling me "my son" and I've been explained that his father's gestures suggest that I'm a part of the family now. I'm really grateful to Akmal for showing me his home and life in Ba. From now on, he will forever be my bhai jan.
Seeing the family interact made me realize just how much I take mine for granted back home. I know that one of the things I will take away from this experience is a sense of appreciation for those who have helped me get to where I am today. It is evident in both the Indigenous Fijian and Indo-Fijian culture that strong family ties are central to everyday life. I've decided I'm going to adopt this philosophy as well. It's not that I don't have good relationships with my aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. but I don't know many of them as well as I would like to and I'm certainly not up to speed on what's going on in their lives. That's a shame, I'm incredibly blessed to have an amazing family! I've decided I'm going to try and amend this when I get back. I just wish I could make it back for Thanksgiving this year. It could be worse though and I will see many of them very soon.
It's strange to think that in only a couple of months I will be going home (inshallah), leaving a place that has made an unexplainable and immeasurable impact on my life. While playing cards, I realized that I'll never be the same and I'll always be connected to this place no matter where I end up. It was a strange feeling but a good one.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Where To Begin?

Oops! Old blog draft, I'm just now putting up now - Eeek!

So June's almost over and I'm now finally getting to write an entry. Tons of things have happened, of course, so I'll not be able to cover everything in detail (some of you are sighing with relief, haha!) but I'll try to give you a rundown of some of this month's occurrences. Here are a few highlights:


Cultural Night - About a month and a half ago I was asked to be a part of the USP Student's Association as a member of the Welfare and Development Committee. The majority of the work to be done with this committee surrounded the promotion and hosting of a major event, the "USPSA Welfare and Development Cultural Night." I was given several responsibilities, one of which was to give the welcome speech to open the evening's program. Although I was nervous to speak in front of hundreds of people whilst in a foreign country, I was honored with the opportunity to be a part of the night and deliver the welcoming address. The coolest part of the evening, however, was being able to see all the traditional dances of the different cultural groups from all of the twelve member countries that make up USP. It was really interesting to see their costumes and learn about the distinct dances that highlight their cultures. After the event, I was deemed an 'Honourary Pacific Islander' by our chief guest, the Deputy Prime Minister of the Cook Islands. I felt incredibly honored.

The American Exodus - Of the American study abroaders my two closest friends, Josh and Elicia, left for home about a week ago. Although we saw each other off and on throughout the semester, I am really grateful for their friendship over the last few months. After getting to know them, it's clear that there was a purpose behind us meeting each other. I grew greatly from conversing with them and hearing their stories. Next semester is going to be different without them around.

Nakorokula - Last week, Nina and I spent five days in a village called Nakorokula, near Sigatoka. We went with a group of fourth-year dental students to provide basic dental care and promote oral health to the villagers. Nina and I manned the registration table and helped with health promotion stuff during the day and the nights were filled with grog sessions and R&R. My trip really warrants a full blog entry, but alas all it will get is a tiny paragraph 'cause my life's been just that eventful over the past month or so. A couple of thoughts, however... I've heard many wise people tell me that life's not about how much money you make or the type of car you drive, and so on. I have to say, however, if life isn't about all those things then why am I constantly pushed to think or plan or worry about them so often? Deep down I know they're right though. Life isn't about those things and the people of Nakorokula reminded me of that once again. As I reflect on the week, I have come to the conclusion that perhaps the biggest thing I can take away from my time in Fiji is that so very often my priorities are screwed up. It's good to dream and aspire and work hard, but work and achievement are not the most important things in life. And although the people of Nakorokula lived with very little, it was evident that they were very rich. Life is simple but short and I must always remember... vu, vanua, moana, mana... It's ironic to think that after all my years of schooling, perhaps the most significant lessons I've learned have come from people who have never attended a lecture or written a term paper. Reality check, huh?

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Top 10's

My time in Fiji almost halfway over and I'm experiencing mixed emotions. I'm having a blast, but really suffering from some withdrawal over some comforts of my life back in Iowa. Some of you may be confused, so let me get you up to speed. I've switched from a two-year program to a one-year one and also changed my course of study from Social Policy to Education, hence why I'm almost half-way done already. There are a number of reasons behind my decisions, but essentially the change in field of study allowed me to complete my coursework in a year (with a thesis following) instead of two, so I decided to change from the Multi-Year Scholarship to the Academic Year one. Financially, the cost of living here for two years would have greatly exceeded my scholarship funds as well, so I'm glad I made the switch. All this happened only a couple weeks after arriving, but I realized I forgot to mention it any of my entries. So yeah, back to the mix of emotions. I've been having an awesome time here but I'm really starting to miss things from home. I think my thoughts would be best illustrated in a Top 10 list of things I miss the most. Here goes...

Top 10 Things Mike Misses From Home...

10. Postal (Zip) Codes - Every time I write my address down I feel like I'm missing something. Never thought I'd miss that!

9. "Yes" Meaning "Yes" - This is hard to explain, but sometimes when Fijians say "Yes" they really mean "No." They will shake their heads wildly up and down as if they understand you, but they really have no idea what you are saying and/or simply want you to go away thinking they agree with you. This "No-Yes" also comes in the form of promises that will simply never be kept - Ex. "So, you'll be back tomorrow to fix it?" "Yes, yes, yes." or "Io, io, io." Ahhhh...No, no, no... Really they mean "Yes... I'll be back whenever I get around to it and maybe never!"

8. Laundry Washer and Dryer - Enough said!

7. Free Sauce - At most restaurants here you have to pay extra for sauces like ketchup or even salad dressing (it doesn't come with the salad). Being a person who believes firmly that most foods are simply a means by which we consume delicious sauces, this really ticks me off! I miss the freedom of gluttony of American society!

6. Quiet Nights - I've adjusted to the dogs for the most part, but it never ceases to amaze me just how loud a neighborhood can be at night. The buses going by, the dogs barking, the kava-pounding... I miss the peace and quiet of my little neighborhood back in Boone or the stillness of the forest at camp.

5. Pizza - In my experience, it doesn't matter what restaurant you choose here in Suva, finding a decent slice of pizza is not gonna happen! Even Pizza Hut struggles to make par. I think it's the sauce or the meat or the combination of the two, but something's off and it always leaves you disappointed. I miss that greasy American good stuff from back home!

4. Driving - There's something to be said about the independence of having a car and the ability to go wherever you please without soliciting the services of public transportation, however entertaining it may be (see previous entry, haha!). I miss the feeling of being behind the wheel and deciding on a whim when and where I want to go. I miss the freedom of that.

3. Inside Jokes - Whenever I get a wall-post on Facebook or talk on Skype with people who are back in the states, the best parts of our conversations are always the inside jokes we re-laugh about. Because I haven't been friends with people here that long, our inside jokes are few and far between.

2. Camp - Summer is just arriving back home and this will be the first time in six years that I haven't been a camp counselor. I'm definitely going through camp withdrawal. I miss the smell of the fire and the company of camp friends. I miss the kids, and the laughter, and the escape from what Kerouac calls "the world of seriousness."

1. Friends and Family - Even when you are surrounded by picturesque places and fascinating people, there is nothing like passing time with good friends and close family. The coolest thing about traveling is getting to see new things and experience a different life for awhile, but also learning to appreciate the life you have back home and the people who make it what it is.

Despite the occasional homesickness, things are going incredibly well here in Fiji and time is flying by. I cannot believe I'm already done with my first semester here, only exams to go (wish me luck, by the way!). I'm returning to the states for my brother CT's wedding and will be home for a couple of weeks. I plan on visiting a Camp Hantesa, making an appearance at my sponsor Rotary Club, and of course catching up with friends and family while I'm back. I'm super pumped to get to see everyone again and I'll definitely by eating lots of pizza and using tons of sauce at every meal, haha! Hope everyone reading this is doing well. Take care and I'll see some of you soon! Peace and grace. Moce, y'all.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Transportation Inspiration


You don't have to be in Fiji long to get acquainted with some of the quirks of living here and transportation is one of them. When trying to get from A to B in Suva there are only two options - bus or taxi. I wish I could say one is more "unremarkable" than the other, but both are fantastically odd and will ever-amaze you with their tackiness. In fact, I think it is each driver's personal mission to deliver the highest quality of ridiculousness in their little moving houses of fun.
When I rode the bus for the first time a couple of months ago, I wasn't sure what I was in for. Yup, let's just say it was a little strange. The decor was pleasant to say the least - plastic covered seats with pealing paint on all the metal-worked framing, matted looking tassels dotting the front windshield, faded pictures of Hindu deities taped up along the dashboard, and this huge pleather-tassely thing covering the stick-shift (driving with one of these appears similar to palming a basketball... seriously). I gotta say the combination of all of it made the ambiance strangely charming. The music really topped it off though. The radio blared hit after hit of today's chart-toppers from India. It was like listening to the soundtrack to the Bollywood version of 'You Got Served' - epic! If it weren't for the sounds and smells of the transmission about to drop, I'd have thought I was in a nightclub. Meeting capacity standards is not exactly priority for the good ol' 'Central Transport, Ltd.' It was incredibly packed. I've never seen anything like it actually; there were three to a seat all the way back and the people in the aisles were practically on top of each other. It was, of course, a million degrees out as well, so the bus created a sort of solar oven in which all of us would eventually roast to our death. Let me tell you, it was a good time.
There is equal effort put into the "entertainment" sector of the taxi industry here as well. Often the dashboard will be plastered with bumper stickers or bobble heads and tinker toys. The seats are almost always covered in plastic so that your butt sticks comfortably to the surface and usually makes a squeaking sound as you move in and out of the cab. Again, you'll commonly find yourself listening to 'Hindi-Hop' (as I have affectionately termed it), and staring bedazzled at the enormous and fantastically stupid-looking tassely stick-shift cover. The makings for the best of transport atmospheres is, of course, when there is an additional seat cover placed between the plastic one and the seat itself (they really like their seat covers...). The most tasteful of these 'tweeners' are made of fake animal skin (leopard is my favorite) or out of a gigantic doily. So avant-garde!
Regardless of whether you take bus or taxi, if you're headed out for a night on the town in Fiji, the entertainment starts before you even get to where you're going!

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Soul Searching


It's been a long time since I've felt this way. I wish that weren't true but it is. I feel like my soul is full. Last weekend I went to a boarding school in Natovi with members of my host Rotary club, Suva North, for a work day . The day was part of a project that's been going on for quite some time now. The club started out by making repairs to dilapidated buildings around the school's campus - installing mosquito screens in windows, putting up dividing walls in dorms, cleaning up rubbish built up over the years, and touching things up with a fresh coat of paint. I could tell a lot of work had been done already, not just from the project coordinator's words but from comparing places that had been improved versus ones that would make projects to come. Almost all of the work prior to Saturday's was done entirely by Rotarians, with little assistance from the school faculty or children. The purpose of going this weekend was to change that - we wanted the kids to take ownership over where they lived and teach them to care for it. To start this process, we thought we'd teach them how to paint, work with instead of for them, and emphasize taking pride in their home.
When we arrived on-site the beds and personal items were already removed from the dorms and everything was placed outside under overhangs in case of rain (it rains almost daily here). There were about fifteen kids there to start out, aged eight to twelve give or take. The others were making up classes missed during the flooding that took place a few months ago. We began by having the kids clean up the remaining trash and odds and ends on the floor and shelves; it's all part of the prep process. Next was scraping the walls to remove old pealing paint, stickers, tape, sticky-tack, etc. to get ready to apply the first coat. I could tell the kids were going to do great job already, they were attentive and hardworking. We put down newspapers as drop clothes in the center of the room with trays and drums of undercoat spread out for the them to use. I explained the importance of being careful not to splatter onto the nice hardwood floor (which were in remarkable condition by the way) and continued by demonstrating how to use a roller versus a brush. We had a kid pour paint into the trays and off they all went!
It was really cool to see what a good time they were all having just whitewashing walls. Soon the older students joined us and the process continued as the crew painted the insides of three or four other buildings, two coats each. After leading the youngsters all morning, I had a following by mid-day. I walked around with a group of little ones doing projects. It seems that all my experience in youth work was reflected in how the kids responded to me. I taught them how to clean the brushes and trays and how to store them properly and they worked incredibly hard. A couple Rotarians commented on my way with children, they were impressed by my ability to teach the kids how to do things and how much fun they had in the process. One later asked, "Hey, can you go do that thing where you get them to do everything themselves and maybe have 'em clean these brushes up too?!?" I said I would and told them how I'd always believed in the 'learning disguised as fun' philosophy. I was thankful for all the training experience I had in camping and youth work; thankful for Suz's* emphasis on participatory learning. More than that, however, I felt blessed to have the opportunity to use my skills and training here. Many of the children were from small villages and had never seen how a room is painted, let alone been able to do it themselves! It was great to be a part of such a unique opportunity for them. The day had it's hitches but we accomplished much and were exhausted by the time we headed out. It was worth it though.
I have to say this was the best time I've had since I have been in Fiji. It's funny to think that when I first came here all I wanted to experience was sun and sand, but after Saturday I'm finding that I'd take a day like that over the beach every time. It's an incredible thing to give to another, especially children, and I felt a fullness in my soul I haven't felt in a very long time. I've been reflecting on the whole 'why am I here?' thing and think I may be arriving at it. It's time for me to give myself up for awhile, to live humbly and serve others selflessly. I'm here on a scholarship through Rotary, who's very motto is Service Above Self, and I think it's finally hitting home for me. I'm considering working with the Natovi school for my on-going project here and have been putting together some ideas about how to improve their programs. I know that my experience and training in camping and at Woodward Academy would provide some valuable insight to help move things along. I'll keep you posted.
Time is starting to go by quicker now as the routine is setting in. The grad school work load is ever-increasing and I'm getting busier by the day. I still manage to miss home every once in awhile and think about my friends and family all the time. Despite the occasional homesickness, however, I'm grateful to be here and am looking forward to the seeing where the Natovi project will go. Speaking of grad school, I better go and get some reading done for an upcoming project. I hope everyone's lovin' life back home. Take care and write me if you get a chance. Peace out.



*For those of you who don't know - Suz was my camp director at both Hantesa and Toccoa and taught me practically everything I know about youth work. I consider her my mentor in camping and am continually inspired by her dedication to kids and her passion for quality program development. (Thanks for everything, Suz!)

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

I Won't Hesitate

I think it's time for another update, so here goes. Nina and I spent the whole of our long Easter weekend on Venua Levu, the smaller of the main Fijian Islands. We left on Thursday evening with some people we met in Suva and took a twelve hour overnight ferry that ported in Savu Savu, where we'd be staying for our time there. The group was composed of young professionals, many of which own their own businesses here or are in middle management of major companies. Apparently this is a yearly event for them; they choose a destination and get a group together to take a trip. There was plenty of drama over the weekend, but Nina and I managed to stay out of the mix of it. It was actually kind of entertaining to watch, haha! Side note: I feel it's appropriate to say now that despite the drama, I was refreshed to get to spend some time with a large group of people again. It's a bit wearing to spend all your time with only one person. Nina's a fantastic flatmate and friend, but it's nice to have the group dynamic every once in awhile. Plus, y'all know how much of a people-person I am, so I've been proud to say I have lasted this long apart from a large group of friends without going crazy!
The weekend was nice and relaxing and finding things to stay out of the drama wasn't hard to do. Whilst in town, Nina decided to buy a snorkel and I followed suit and purchased one myself. We asked around and heard that a place called Split Rock is a spot with some of the best snorkeling in all of Fiji. Since it was close to our resort we thought we'd walk. Although we were told it was nearby "just another kilometer" became an all too common phrase from the locals we met along the way. After walking about 8k there, we finally reached our destination! Despite our rantings about how long it took us to get there (we weren't expecting a hike and flip-flops weren't exactly the appropriate shoes for the trek), a dip in the ocean was just what we needed cool us down (literally and figuratively). And, though the locals don't have much sense of distance, they know their snorkeling! It was fantastic; like visiting another world! The corals formed deep crevasses you could swim between which made you really feel like you were in the mix even though you're mostly on the surface. I saw some of the most beautiful fish you could imagine in all shapes and sizes and the coral formations were breathtaking alone. Needless to say it was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I just wish I had an underwater camera to show it off! We spent the rest of our time wandering around the island, chillin' poolside or on the beach, and taking pictures. Other than that, the rest of the trip was relatively unremarkable. Well, except for one thing...
Mom says coincidence is God's way of remaining anonymous. I'm not sure where she gets her quotes (by which I'm blessed to hear regularly), but I think there's wisdom in that thought. Sometimes I cannot explain why or how I find myself in crazy-cool situations but it happens nonetheless. Back to the ferry boat ride - About half-way through our trip I somehow found myself sitting on a woven mat with a group of ten or so Fijians, drinking kava and singing songs ranging from Van Morrison to K-Ci and Jojo. They were incredibly talented and remarkably in sync with each other; they gave each song an island feel and the harmonies were unreal. I sang with them, of course, and played a couple songs on the guitar each time they passed it to me. After a few hours of this I felt truly blessed to be singing again and to be with a group of such talented people! I found out that some of them were in a band called 128, that toured around the Pacific and that they were putting on a show in Savu Savu Saturday night. When the guy told me this, it hit me just how surreal the situation was. I was jamming with a well-known Fijian band on a ferry boat travelling between islands in the South Pacific. I should write a book! To top it off, he invited me to come to the concert and sing a song or two with them! A couple nights later I found myself in another surreal situation - I was in front of a couple hundred people singing lead on a cover of Jason Mraz's 'I'm Yours.' I only sang one song but I'll never forget it! After it was all over I kept asking myself how it all happened and thinking 'How did I wind up so lucky?' Probably just coincidence.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Is This Heaven?


There are some interesting aspects about living in Fiji that are hard to appreciate (if you can call it that) unless you've lived here for a bit. I'll only share one with you now, though I assure you there are many. One of those things is the "mangy dog factor." Few realize the impact the gross over-population of dogs has on one's experience in the barrios of Suva, but believe me it can take its toll! The first time this became apparent to me was back when I was temporarily living in Tamavua at another flat. I would classify the 'Tamavuan' dogs as one of the "quieter" varieties of Fijian stock. They were well-mannered and affectionate and only bark occasionally throughout the night. The downfall of the 'Tamavuan' is its rooster-like quality - between 4-5am, you'll be delighted to be awoken from your slumber by the neighborhood pack. Strangely enough, the vocal chords of this variety are slightly altered from the norm. Instead of a bark, the mongrels make a mutant-like screeching howl for 10-12 seconds at a time, only pausing to take a breath! It's really charming.
Although my affection towards these dogs made it difficult to leave Tamavua, alas I had to relocate to my current flat in Samabula, another suburb of greater Suva. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find that the mangy dog culture is flourishing in this neighborhood. In fact, it's perhaps the Mecca for the Fijian mutt; the "Strip" of doggy Suva. I've found that there is a thriving nightlife here for them that is unmatched around the globe! To make things even more exciting, they often congregate right outside our building at the corner! Every night the dogs make their rounds, running up and down the streets barking, howling, and fighting each other from midnight to about 3 or 4am. My favorite activity of theirs to observe, however, is what I have affectionately termed the "doggy drive-by." This is when they get together at the corner (about 15-20 dogs, literally!) and proceed to walk up the hill, barking at each house as loud as their little lungs will allow for about an hour. Let's just say the barks are a sort of Fijian hymn for me and the feral dogs are the minstrels! Their song soars through the still Fijian sky. "Is this heaven? No it's Samabula."
Hope this gave you a laugh! I gotta say the dogs have been cause for a bit of adjustment from the quiet sleep I used to get in small town Iowa and at camp. I've adapted though and have learned to turn up my fan and shut the street-facing window in my bedroom before hitting the sack. I'm sleeping better every night now!
Well, I'm off to have lunch downtown. Hope life's treating everyone well. Peace and grace always, y'all.