Thursday, April 2, 2009

Is This Heaven?


There are some interesting aspects about living in Fiji that are hard to appreciate (if you can call it that) unless you've lived here for a bit. I'll only share one with you now, though I assure you there are many. One of those things is the "mangy dog factor." Few realize the impact the gross over-population of dogs has on one's experience in the barrios of Suva, but believe me it can take its toll! The first time this became apparent to me was back when I was temporarily living in Tamavua at another flat. I would classify the 'Tamavuan' dogs as one of the "quieter" varieties of Fijian stock. They were well-mannered and affectionate and only bark occasionally throughout the night. The downfall of the 'Tamavuan' is its rooster-like quality - between 4-5am, you'll be delighted to be awoken from your slumber by the neighborhood pack. Strangely enough, the vocal chords of this variety are slightly altered from the norm. Instead of a bark, the mongrels make a mutant-like screeching howl for 10-12 seconds at a time, only pausing to take a breath! It's really charming.
Although my affection towards these dogs made it difficult to leave Tamavua, alas I had to relocate to my current flat in Samabula, another suburb of greater Suva. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to find that the mangy dog culture is flourishing in this neighborhood. In fact, it's perhaps the Mecca for the Fijian mutt; the "Strip" of doggy Suva. I've found that there is a thriving nightlife here for them that is unmatched around the globe! To make things even more exciting, they often congregate right outside our building at the corner! Every night the dogs make their rounds, running up and down the streets barking, howling, and fighting each other from midnight to about 3 or 4am. My favorite activity of theirs to observe, however, is what I have affectionately termed the "doggy drive-by." This is when they get together at the corner (about 15-20 dogs, literally!) and proceed to walk up the hill, barking at each house as loud as their little lungs will allow for about an hour. Let's just say the barks are a sort of Fijian hymn for me and the feral dogs are the minstrels! Their song soars through the still Fijian sky. "Is this heaven? No it's Samabula."
Hope this gave you a laugh! I gotta say the dogs have been cause for a bit of adjustment from the quiet sleep I used to get in small town Iowa and at camp. I've adapted though and have learned to turn up my fan and shut the street-facing window in my bedroom before hitting the sack. I'm sleeping better every night now!
Well, I'm off to have lunch downtown. Hope life's treating everyone well. Peace and grace always, y'all.

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